Why did I completely refit Inkslinger?

Well......I guess this question is best answered with photos. You can clearly see the hull sagging down over the keel. This was my first indication of total hull core rot. I found out 9 months after her purchase.
Then I discovered that the easiest way to replace the hull core was to remove the top. No easy chore here. Lucky for me my Wife's dad had a large forklift and off she came, only to discover that the transom wood was half rotten also.
So I chiseled, by hand, all of the rotted core off of the bottom and transom. Then spent 2 and a half weeks with a grinder removing all remaining traces of the old plywood core.

Then it was time to laminate two layers of 3/8" marine plywood to the transom (note the notch along the bottom edge...This was to accommodate the hull core while giving full coverage to the transom.)

Then the top went back on and the hull core was laminated in. This way the hull was completely held into its natural shape as the core was laminated.

The original hull core was 1/2" marine ply. Mine is 2 staggered layers of 3/8" marine ply for a 3/4" thick rigid as hell core that I hand-laid almost 1/4" of alternating mat/roving/mat of fiberglass over. Also note that the longitudinal stringers are not the factory end-grain balsa. Mine are made of 1/4"wall schedule 80 PVC pipe cut lengthwise and bonded to the hull using "FUSOR 142" structural epoxy. These are set 3" from the edge of the core so the glass is bonded to the hull on both sides of the longitudinal stringers.

So........she's stout as hell. I'll include more on the refit at a later date as I got comepletely off track and never did cover the flying jib boom as promised for January.

STAY TUNED